Week 01 - 07 Task 1 : Basic Garment Draping

 Basic Garment Draping

Vanessa Gohan

0356122

Bachelor of Fashion Design Technology

Week 1 (06 April 2023)

*materials required : sewing tools and calico (muslin)

On week 1, we were introduced to draping. By using calico, Ms. Merlina shared the terms that is used on fabric details such as selvage, grain lines and true bias.

On that day, Ms. Merlina also teached us how to drape a basic skirt.

Example by Ms Merlina

My skirt draping process :

- First, I draw the base pattern with the given direction.

Front 

Back

- Then, I drape it on the mannequin to know the location of the dart. Starting by aligning the waist line and hip line with the mannequin. Then, pin and pinch a bit to draw the dart by pencil.

- after I got the location of the dart, I sew the dart together to get the shape of the skirt

Week 2 (13 April 2023)

Lecture :

Understanding basic terminology and markings on the Body Form - Landmark Terms, Symbol Key, Symbol Key

Measuring the Body Form.

Method of Basting, Fitting, Pattern Adjustment.

Pattern making and Check 

Practical : Preparing & Making the Dress Form Arm 

During the class, Ms Merlina gave us her arm pattern in which we have to draw a copy of our own.

Then, I traced the pattern on to calico fabric.

Those lines and darts were then sewed with red and black threads.

Next, the side of the arm were then sewed together and flipped out.

Moving on, Ms Merlina asked us to cut out a rectangle with 14 cm width & 27 cm length. Then, fold it in half and sewed 1cm up from below.

Then fold this piece into a triangle and sew 1cm up from the bottom. Next, it was stitched together with the arm. To clear up, this piece was made to attach the arm with the body.

Then, we were given 2 circles, small & big sizes, on card board which were then sewed together on the calico with 1 cm seam allowance. Those circles were then sewed on the arm as covers.

After sticthing both covers on, the arm is finished.

Tutorial : Continue Assignment 1 (basic skirt)

- cutting the waistband (measurement : 4 cm width, 33cm + 1,5cm length)

- lastly, I sew it altogether with the waistband 

Additional exercizes :

Basic pattern on manilla card

Week 3 (20 April 2023)

Lecture :

Marking the Dress Form 

Identify the marking

Garment assembly

Sewing process

Practical : preparing calico for half-sized dress

Princess line

- draping process

Front

Back

For starter, make sure that the bust line is aligned with the mannequin then you can start pinning the rest. Also, make sure that the fabric is flattened on the mannequin (you can cut the fabric on the sides if it cannot stay flat). After pinning all of the fabric flat, you can start drawing all the lines ( neck lines, waist line, arm lines, shoulder lines)

These 2 pieces were then stitched together

After that, Ms Merlina told us to stitch the side hem and shoulder line together

Back look

Front look

Tutorial : basic half-sized dress

Result of draping

Then, stitch the dart together and the shoulder lines and the hem lines.

Back look

Front look

Week 4-6 (27 April,4 May, 11 May 2023)

(27th April 2023 holiday)

Lecture : 

Exploration of Garment Draping

Practical : Draping Basic Dress

- first, need to cut the calico by the given measurement

- then, drape the cut calico on the mannequin and draw all the lines (waist line, bust line, shoulder line, neck line) and darts. After getting all those lines and darts, cut off the unused calico and left out 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Front 

Back

Tutorial : transfer garment draping into master pattern

- In the tutorial class, Ms Merlina asked us to trace the dress onto a mahjong paper.

- after it was traced, I stitched all the darts together.

Front

Back

- lastly, stitch the shoulder and side hems together

Front look

Back look

Week 7 (18 April 2023)

*material required: 

• 2 meters habutai  
• 24 “zipper 
• Thread
• Interfacing

Lecture 1 : Task 2 Exploration of Garment Draping

Based on the first assessment task result, we are required to create an experimental garment draping using spontaneous draping process. This task will allow to explore garment draping in creating different shape and silhouette. 

Tutorial 3 : Draped dress sewing & Practical 2 : Continuation of sewing the dress 

After tracing the calico on habotai (lining), I started to sew both the darts on calico and habotai. Then, connect each the shoulder and side lines of both calico and habotai. After having both of the dress form, connect the arm hole first and second the neck line. Next, sew the zipper on calico then connect the back of the zipper with the hsbotai. Then, sew the remaining hem lines together (calico with calico, habotai with habotai). Lastly, sew the bottom hem line together to get the final dress form.